Monday 21 July 2014

War against melasma!!!





What is melasma?

It is an ANNOYING tan or dark skin discoloration. Although it can affect anyone, melasma is particularly common in women, especially pregnant women and those who are taking oral or patch contraceptives or hormone replacement therapy (HRT) medications. It is also prevalent in men and women of Native American descent (on the forearms) and in men and women of German, Russian, and Jewish descent (on the face).


What causes melasma?



The exact cause of melasma remains unknown. Experts believe that the dark patches in melasma could be triggered by several factors, including pregnancy, birth control pills, hormone replacement therapy (HRT and progesterone), family history of melasma, race, antiseizure medications, and other medications that make the skin more prone to pigmentation after exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light. Uncontrolled sunlight exposure is considered the leading cause of melasma, especially in individuals with a genetic predisposition to this condition. Clinical studies have shown that individuals typically develop melasma in the summer months, when the sun is most intense. In the winter, the hyperpigmentation in melasma tends to be less visible or lighter.
When melasma occurs during pregnancy, it is also called chloasma, or "the mask of pregnancy." Pregnant women experience increased estrogen, progesterone, and melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) levels during the second and third trimesters of pregnancy. However, it is thought that pregnancy-related melasma is caused by the presence of increased levels of progesterone and not due to estrogen and MSH. Studies have shown that postmenopausal women who receive progesterone hormone replacement therapy are more likely to develop melasma. Postmenopausal women receiving estrogen alone seem less likely to develop melasma.
In addition, products or treatments that irritate the skin may cause an increase in melanin production and accelerate melasma symptoms.
People with a genetic predisposition or known family history of melasma are at an increased risk of developing melasma. Important prevention methods for these individuals include sun avoidance and application of extra sunblock to avoid stimulating pigment production. These individuals may also consider discussing their concerns with their doctor and avoiding birth control pills and hormone replacement therapy (HRT) if possible.


My Story


It all started about five years ago. I looked at the mirror and noticed a tiny brown patch on my right cheek. At first, I kind of ignored it but after a while I noticed another damn brown patch on my upper lip and I started to freak out! That was just the tip of a huge iceberg... I had no idea I had melasma until I decided to see a derm. The first physician told me to buy a gel and use it twice a day. But HE did not tell me I should wear a good physical sunscreen on my face. As a result, as the years went by, it just got worse and worse, especially during the summer. 

Melasma has not only affected me physically but also psychologically. I became anti-social, depressive and used to avoid planning any activity that would include the word SUN. As a result,  made me feel even more depressive  because I was not getting enough Vitamin D. 

But after a while, I decided I wanted my social life back! Since then, I have been  doing a lot of research and trying different products to see what really works. I am happy I could get my melasma under control. Today I can say that even though the battle is not quite won yet, I have won many fights against melasma.

I started this blog so that we can fight this war together!!! I will be sharing with you all the tricks I use to keep my melasma under control. 

I am really glad I can get to share it with you. This works for me and I hope it works for you too.



How I keep my melasma under control



TIP # 1 -Physical sunscreen





  The first (and best) advice I can give to a melasma sufferer is: PLEASEEE WEAR A GOOD PHYSICAL SUNSCREEN !



In order to prevent melasma from worsening, you may wear sunscreen which contains a mineral based shield from the sun with an SPF at least 30.

A good sunscreen for melasma sufferers should not contain :paraben, PABA, oxybenzone, alcohol and copper.Moreover, it must contain at least 10% zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. These are the best sunscreens (according to reviews).

Eltamd UV Physical SPF 41

This susncreen is lightweight and contributes to maintaining clean, clear, smooth skin. Even though it only contains 9% Zinc oxide, this product has amazing reviews. It is great for all skin types, including acne-prone skin. In addition it is  oil-free, paraben-free, non-comedogenic, sensitivity-free, and fragrance-free. Moreover, it  contains vitamin B3 which helps to keep your skin young and healthy.


Thinkbaby sunscreen SPF50+ benefiting LIVESTRONG, 3 ounces

This sunscreen is one of my faves ever!! It is made with natural ingredients and contains 20% Zinc Oxide , its paraben-free, very water resistant and perfect for sensitive skin. It can be used by pregnant women and children over 6 months. In addition, it claims to have the highest UVA and UVB coverage on the market. Moreover, the formula does not use nano (ultra small) zinc oxide or aerosol spray both of which are of high concern in the science community. Top rated by EWG's skin deep in 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013. Easy to apply and does not feel oily. You can also use thinksport SPF 50 Plus Sunscreen, 3 Ounce which has the same formula.


Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Cream SPF 55 PA+++, 2oz

This is another must-have sunscreen. It contains 13% Zinc Oxide and it has anti-aging properties.This formula offers intensive complexion defense against UVA/UVB rays that cause sunburn, cell damage, dryness, roughness, and premature signs of aging. It is also very water-resistant and Perspiration-resistant. PABA-free. Recommended by the Skin Cancer Foundation as an effective UV sunscreen.


Cotz Sensitive SPF 40 Sunscreen (3.5oz)
 It also contains 20% Zinc Oxide, provides broad spectrum UVA/UVB and does not sting the eyes. It is also water resistant and non- greasy. Moreover,  100% Free of Oils, Chemical Sunscreens, Preservatives, Fragrances,  Parabens, PABA, Gluten, and Phythalates. It even has a tinted version which can be worth to give a try based on its excellent reviews.


Protective clothing and wearing a hat may help to prevent melasma from worsening. I have a collection of hats at home and one of my fave is
San Diego Hat Company UPF 50+ Roll-up Wide Brim Sun Visor with Bow (Black).

 Protective facial make-up may also be worn to help even skin tone and block out the sun. Fallene Total Block tinted has excellent coverage and very good protection against UVA and UVB rays, however it does contain paraben. This is one of the best products I have ever tried so far. Jane Iredale Glow Time has also great coverage. I just love this product because it acts as a concealer, foundation, powder and susncreen. Moreover, its oil, talk, colorant and paraben free which makes it even more fantastic. I also like to wear Dermablend Smooth Indulgence as it hides all my imperfections. Most recently I discovered another great foundation for you who has very dark spots. Its called Dermacol and it can even hide tattoos.



TIP # 2 - The best topic treatment I have tried (so far)


In order to get rid of my melasma I have tried many different products. Some were quite good and others not so good. Lightning creams, for example, usually help me quite a lot. Combined ingredients like tretinoin, kajoic acid and azelaic acid are often quite good to treat melasma.

However, a treatment that best worked for me is Cosmelan which is one of the best treatments available nowadays. Moreover it is safe, suitable for different photypes and can be used all ear round. 



 The treatment kit consists of: acetone-based cleaning liquid, Cosmelan 1 – mask applied by a specialist in a medical office, Cosmelan 2 – cream for use at home under the supervision of a specialist, Hydravital Factor K – cream which moisturises, has anti-inflammatory properties and soothes the skin irritated after Cosmelan treatment.



The treatment consists of two stages
1. In the room:
 The person conducts the cleansing treatment and degreases the skin, and then applies Cosmelan 1 mask, which resembles a dark-coloured fluid.
2.  At home
A patient with a mask applied goes home and washes it with running water, after about 5 hours. Mask holding time is determined by the person conducting the treatment or doctor responsible for consultation, depending on the patient’s skin phototype. Then, the patient applies Cosmelan 2cream for 3 months after surgery, according to the scheme chosen by the person conducting the treatment, and a special soothing cream – Hdravital factor K.

I have only used Cosmelan 2. After just a week I could notice the results and after a month I was getting compliments on my skin :)  I still wear it once a week to keep my skin glowing. I just love it!!!! 


 However, I advise you to consult your physician first! And do not forget to wear  sunscreen before, during and after your treatment!!!




TIP # 3 - Fighting melasma from the inside 


To fight your melasma, you will need to do more than use one cream. For the best results, you can supplement your cream with simple, natural and little known remedies. Some of these remedies are nutritional supplements you can take internally. The supplements I take are MSM, Milk Thistle , Folic Acid , Magnesium , Zinc, Pycnogenol . In addition, I  take probiotics, drink loads of water and eat loads of fruits and vegies rich in vitamin c, like kiwi, strawberries, papaya etc. It is argued that some of these supplements right hormone imbalances (estrogen) that cause melasma.


Why do these supplements help?

Both Zinc and Vitamin C help lower copper levels (which is directly linked to melasma). Moreover, milk thisle helps to detox the liver to get rid of the excess copper in the body.
The liver breaks down estrogen and sends it to the intestines to be eliminated, but once there, bad bacteria can re-convert it back to estrogen. Good bacteria like L. acidophilus helps prevent this from happening by competing with the estrogen-forming bad bacteria. You can ensure that you have enough good bacteria by taking it in capsule form (widely marketed as probiotics) or naturally through fermented foods like kefir, yoghurt, tempeh, miso, and kimchi. Here you can read more about why it’s so important for us to maintain a  digestive health Keep your gut healthy – it’s your body’s second brain!

For further info read this book: Digestive Wellness: Strengthen the Immune System and Prevent Disease Through Healthy Digestion


In relation to this, also avoid taking oral antibiotics on a regular basis. Antibiotics kills many types of good bacteria in the intestines and actually helps bad bacteria to thrive, which raises estrogen re-absorption in the body.
Eating more fiber also helps your body get rid of excess estrogen. Adding fiber through cereals or supplements shortens the transit time of your bowel movements. Shorter transit times means less estrogen is reabsorbed on its way out.

Again, I advise you to consult you doctor before starting to take any supplements!

Another supplement that is claimed to be very effective and safe to treat melasma is Pycnogenol or pine bark extract, which is a very potent antioxidant. Studies show that melasma sufferers taking that supplement have had great improvements after just a month. I have tried it and love it!

Another great supplement which helps fight melasma is MSM (methysulphorylmethane), a natural sulphur that helps even out the skin tone. It can make wonders not only to your skin but also to your hair and nails. Give it a try! This brand is my fave Doctors Best MSM Powder - 250g


 

  What to avoid!

                                                         



  1. Products which contain:

  • Paraben
  • PABA
  • Oxybenzone
These products usually  mimic estrogen that causes Melasma
 
2.Food /beverages which contain Copper : 

  • Seafood - oysters, crabs, bluefish, perch, lobster
  • Meats - calf, duck, lamb, pork, beef liver and kidneys 
  • Nuts/seeds - almonds, pecans, walnuts, filberts, brazil nuts, sesame, sunflower, pistachio  
  • Vegetables - soybeans 
  • Grains - wheat germ and bran 
  • Miscellaneous - yeast, gelatin, bone meal, corn oil, margarine, mushrooms, chocolate 
  • Other sources - copper water pipes, copper sulfate added to drinking water, copper compounds used in swimming pools, mineral supplements (especially prenatal vitamins), copper cookware and tea kettles, birth control pills, copper intrauterine devices, vegetarian diets, stress, exhaustion of the adrenal glands

Hey guys, I just started reading a very interesting book about hormonal changes and how to balance our levels of estrogen (one of the main causes for melasma). Its called The Hormone Cure: Reclaim Balance, Sleep, Sex Drive and Vitality Naturally with the Gottfried Protocol .Its worth reading.



My beauty routine: Natural products
 

Hey guys!
I receive tons of emails asking about my daily beauty routine. I try to use natural products such as coconut oil, argan oil, pure organic apple cider vinegar, an african soap  with vitamin E, aloe vera and oatmeal. I try to avoid products containing parabens, alcohol, oxybenzone and other aggressive ingredients. I start cleaning my face with a homemade lotion which contains water, extra virgin olive oil, pequi oil,tea tree oil,  argan oil and olive oil. I Shake it well before I use it. Then I apply it with a cotton pad all over my face and neck to remove the dirt. After that  I wash my face with Bar Soap, African Blk with Al, 5 oz (6 Pack) and gently pat it dry with a super clean towel. Then I apply a homemade tonic made with Bragg Apple Cider Vinegar Organic Raw -- 32 fl oz and filtered waterI diluted a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar with 1dl water. After applying this tonic 
I massage my face with coconut oil and leave it for about 5 minutes. After that I remove it with a damp muslim cloth. The skin gets very soft. Then I apply my sunscreen thinksport SPF 50 Plus Sunscreen, 3 Ounce or Total Block Tinted.

Soon I will be posting my night beauty routine :)